Paint doors: DIY instructions and pro tip
8 min reading time
Do you perhaps have those unloved wooden doors in your home that destroy any colour concept in the room? Or do your painted interior doors show more traces of "lived life" after a long time than you can still find beautiful? Then there's only one thing to do: paint the doors with our water-based varnishes. Because it's surprisingly easy, usually without any sanding at all.
Before/After sample photos for painting doors
Your Step-by-Step Guide to Painting Doors
Step 1: Choose Your Paint
For painting your doors, we particularly recommend our silk-matt Easy Eggshell! This paint can be used on real wood, as well as veneered or foil-wrapped doors. It provides a low-maintenance finish that is especially impact-resistant and durable. When choosing your shade, simply use our colour cards to view the colours in your own lighting conditions beforehand.Step 2: Prepare the Surface
You can paint your door without sanding if the old paint is still intact. However, if there are damaged areas or flaking paint, you should first sand these smooth or remove them. For this, use very fine-grit sandpaper. You can easily conceal any dents or holes with To Fill – MissPompadour filler. Make sure to remove any fittings and anything else that can be detached.Step 3: Clean the Door and Frame
It's best to degrease the door and door frame using To Clean – MissPompadour Cleaner and lukewarm water, then wipe thoroughly with clean water. It’s important that the surface is dust and grease-free. However, strong detergents or other harsh chemicals are not necessary.Do You Need to Mask?
If you want to protect door handles, hinges, locks, or adjacent surfaces such as floors or walls, you can mask them off. Pro tip #1: Always remove masking tape immediately after applying each coat, while the paint is still wet. This prevents paint from peeling off the door or frame when you remove the tape. Then re-mask for the next coat. Pro tip #2: If you want to stick masking tape onto an already painted door (e.g., to paint an adjacent wall), the paint must be fully cured. In this case, wait at least 14 days – depending on humidity and temperature. In some special cases, it might take even longer. Simply test the paint in an inconspicuous spot before you begin masking.Step 4: Prime the Surfaces
For real wood, such as pine or spruce, as well as real wood veneer, use MissPompadour To Bond & Block to ensure that any wood ingredients don't cause stains in your new paint. These discolourations are known as 'bleeding'. After applying a generous coat of primer, wait 8 hours or overnight. For foil-wrapped doors and plastic veneer, also use To Bond & Block to create a good paintable surface. Apply the primer with good coverage and let it dry thoroughly. When applying the primer, ensure your tools are absolutely clean and use different brushes and rollers for the subsequent paint coats.Step 5: Paint the Door
Now, apply the paint coats. Apply as many as needed until you are happy with the result. Often, two coats are sufficient for perfect coverage. Allow each coat to dry very thoroughly. Usually, 4–5 hours is enough, but it might take longer depending on environmental conditions. Ensure good air circulation and moderate temperatures so the paint can cure properly. The surfaces will become more stable day by day, reaching excellent durability after 10–14 days.Step 6: Seal Your Paint
If you anticipate heavy wear and tear, you're covered with To Seal – MissPompadour topcoat. You can apply the topcoat 24 hours after the last paint coat. Following this, a curing time of 10–14 days is required, just as with a paint coat without a topcoat.Painting doors: Colours and materials - what you need to consider
Which colours are suitable for painting doors?
Our Easy Eggshell is the most suitable! It is very hard-wearing and is therefore particularly recommended for painting doors.
Which colours are suitable for wooden doors - what else do I need?
- Easy Eggshell!
- MissPompadour To Bond & Block to prepare surfaces for painting
- To Seal - MissPompadour Topcoat
Which paints are suitable for plastic doors, and what else do I need?
- Easy Eggshell!
- MissPompadour To Bond & Block, to prepare surfaces for painting
- To Seal – MissPompadour topcoat
We've explained exactly how to apply each of the individual primers, paints, and topcoats in our step-by-step guide.
pro tip: Easily transform the style of your doors by adding decorative mouldings, such as wooden ones. This is best done after sanding (if necessary). Then simply paint them in your chosen shade at the same time!
Frequently asked questions about painting doors
1. Can doors simply be painted over?
Can all doors be painted?
Yes, you can paint real wood as well as plastic and metal doors, veneered or foiled doors and door frames.
Do I need a primer?
If you want to paint with light colours, it's worth applying a primer to real wood doors using MissPompadour To Bond & Block to stop the wood from bleeding. Otherwise, oak, tropical wood or softwoods can release tannins and discolour your fresh coat of paint. Old wood dyes and stains can also bleed through new paint.
For bare metal doors and frames, you should apply a stain block to provide corrosion protection and prevent rust. If you want to paint plastic doors, use MissPompadour To Bond & Block to ensure the paint adheres perfectly. This white undercoat also makes it easier to achieve full coverage with light white shades.
Can you paint doors without taking them off?
If you have space and the possibility, then hang the doors out and store them on trestles to paint. If this is not possible, or the effort is too great, then simply paint them hanging. It is then a little more tedious to paint the side on the hinges.
Can you paint doors without sanding them?
If the old varnish on your doors does not peel off, you can simply apply a new layer of varnish. You should only remove layers of paint that are not durable. It is best to start with slightly coarser sandpaper (grit <100) and then sand with finer sandpaper (grit >200).
2. How do I deal with other materials in my door?
Can I also paint the glass inserts of my door?
Yes! As a first step, prime here with MissPompadour To Bond & Block.
Can I also paint silicone joints on glass inserts?
If your door has silicone joints, for example in glass inserts, you can paint over them with MissPompadour To Seal Silicone and then simply varnish them.
Can I also paint the rubber seals?
Yes, you can simply paint over the seals. To prevent them from sticking to the painted door afterwards, you can rub them with baby powder after the varnish has dried for 4 hours. Or you can take the opportunity to simply replace your door rubbers with ones in a matching colour.
Can I also paint door handles?
Yes, you can also paint door handles. It is important what material they are made of. In our guide, we explain how you can paint metals or finish plastic surfaces, for example. However, please note that door handles are subject to a lot of wear and tear.
3. What else do I need to consider when painting doors?
Which coating tool do I need?
It is best to pour the varnish into a small paint tray and work with a varnish roller for water-based varnishes. Then paint, or rather roll, the paint thinly and evenly onto the door leaf. The easiest way to paint the edges is with our To Paint - Fine MissPompadour Brush. Our brushes are also perfect for the corners and recesses of panelled doors.
How much varnish do I need for a door?
For a normal door, approx. 90 cm wide, approx. 2 m high, without glass insert and with frame, we reckon with an area of around 5 square metres. If the door is painted, you will need about 0.5 litres of Easy Eggshell! for two coats of paint.
For light white tones or large colour differences, two coats may not be enough. In this case, it is better to order a little more.
Can you paint a fire door?
Fire doors are subject to special regulations and classifications. Therefore, find out in advance whether painting is permitted and, if in doubt, do not paint.
Tools required and recommended products for painting doors
- Trestles for storing the unhinged door: You can of course also paint your door while it is hanging. Trestles make it a little easier for you to get to hard-to-reach places.
- Screwdriver for removing fittings: This is the cleanest way to work and saves you a lot of tedious masking.
- Sandpaper or sanding pad: For all areas where old varnish has flaked off. These should be sanded smooth first.
- Cleaning cloth and bucket to thoroughly clean the door first: The surface must be free of dust and grease for your paint to hold well.
- Masking tape for masking the door frame: It is best to always remove the masking tape when the paint is not yet dry so that you get a clean edge.
- plastic drop cloth or newspaper: To protect your floor under the frame.
- Brush, varnish roller and paint tray: It is best to pour the varnish into the paint tray. Paint the corners and edges with the brush and the surfaces with the varnish roller.























